Vietnam

Last week I was interviewed by Sketch Magazine, a monthly publication for Vietnam's Japanese community.  So the September issue will feature a little something of my thoughts on living in Vietnam from a foreigner or Viet Kieu perspective.

One question that came up was: How did I end up in Vietnam? And why?

This is a question that's pretty commonly asked in the expat community.  Nobody chooses where they were born but we expats all had some say in the foreign country we moved to.  I traveled around North America, Europe, Asia, and some of Latin America before deciding I wanted to live somewhere in Southeast Asia, finally settling on Ho Chi Minh City.  

When I ask others how they ended up here I get a variety of answers.  You could split them into "planned" and "accidently".  Those who ended up here accidently stayed because of: 

  • a girl (often now an ex-)
  • came on holiday and became addicted to cheap beer
  • came for school and decided to stay (a lot of Germans, Koreans, and Australians)

Others come here due to Vietnamese blood relations, and some come specifically for the business opportunities.  And then there are the true expats, the ones who were sent here or came to work for a specific job.  Traditionally, they would get a fat expat compensation package with housing allowances (thus driving up housing costs for all) and other perks, but this is changing.

So what do those expats who didn't come here with a job in hand already do? 

1. Freelance.  With Vietnam connected to the world via internet (barely, sometimes), many of us with creative skills such as programming or writing can continue to work for clients back home.  Due to the much lower cost of living compared to Western countries, one doesn't need to work as many hours or maintain as many clients as before.

2. Find a job.  This is a bit harder since there may not be the breadth of positions available to match your specific work experience.  Having a PhD in some applied science may be worthless here.  Nobody may have heard of the university you thought was famous.  But most people I know eventually get a real job here (ignoring survivorship bias).

3. Make your own job.  This could be by starting a company, something which is within the reach of most foreigners here, whereas it would have been a highly risky use of savings back home.  Others shop their skillset around to companies who might not have had a position open if you can make them realize you are the solution they just weren't looking for.

4. Teach English.  This is what people do while they are in the process of #2 or #3.  Some people do this for years.  Teaching English in Vietnam is the easiest way to make decent money in Vietnam, assuming you're from the US, the UK, Canada, or Australia/New Zealand (but they also hire good English speakers from the Philippines, Europe, and other countries).  Teachers are in high demand and salaries are often more than you'd make back home.  Teachers don't even need high school degrees, much less college degrees.  Some English teachers find a school before coming here, but it's absolutely not necessary.  The situation is similar in neighboring countries like Cambodia and Thailand.  But with low cost of living and high salaries, Vietnam is probably one of the best countries to come and teach English in.

That covers the where, the what, and the why.  But how?  It used to be quite easy for most Westerners to stay in Vietnam on a 6-month business visa without actually having any business here.  They've since cracked down a bit but it's still possible and quite common to stay on a 3-month tourist visa renewed multiple times.  The laws on the book (not so much in practice) are always changing though, so more on that next time.

Barcamp Saigon Summer 2011 Parting Thoughts

Submitted by tomo on July 27, 2011 - 2:31am

Sunday we had our 4th and largest Barcamp in Saigon. About 570 showed up to the premier free and open tech event in Vietnam. Here are 5 of the things I took away from it.

1. The most people sign up in the last few days before the event.

(if the below graph doesn't load, try reloading the page)

Traditionally, we would get a 50% show rate of the registrations but this time we had 999 people sign up and 570 show up. Without any setup for cross-checking registrations we don't know how many showed up without pre-registering. Because so many signed up after we settled financial calculations, it wasn't possible to accommodate the unexpected people with free food.

2. Barcamp is a recruiting event. Sponsors came with recruitment in mind. Non-sponsors can also try to muscle their way in. Giving a presentation is a great way to advertise your company and the people who ask attentive questions might be good hiring candidates. But giving a presentation as an individual is also a great way to advertise your hireability to companies.

3. Morning rush - everyone should have an equal chance in getting their presentation on the schedule as long as they show up to the opening. But it's kind of chaotic. When the dust settles, most sessions are in the morning while the afternoon schedule is sparser. A lot of people end up leaving before the closing ceremony and t-shirt giveaway, not that there's a problem giving out all shirts. Other Barcamps do it differently. Some use a voting system and I've thought about some implementations for next time.

4. Serial event organizing needs (infra)structure to make organizing less stressful over time. Without huge Google or Microsoft campuses in town, we're lucky we do have the large (although far) and impressive campus of RMIT to depend on. If we want to go Yangon-scale, we may need a totally different location.

As a tech-heavy event with talks on web scalability and high throughput, it's no good when the official web server falls over under load (I blame Windows). Good internet connectivity at the end is also a must.

Other skills the organizing team needs: Fund-raising, logistics, graphic design, legal, and the ability to get the word out.

5. Outsiders are awesome. I'm really grateful for the guys who brought Barcamp organizing experience from Cambodia, China, Southeast Asia, Germany, etc. to Saigon to share with us. Barcamps are often bootstrapped by foreigners. Outsiders also expose us to new ideas in technology. But I was happy to see at least some local ideas find an audience in the foreign attendees.

Barcamp isn't just about the sessions. It's as much about people coming together and sharing ideas outside of the sessions. The organizers' task isn't to control who speaks, unlike traditional conferences. Our job is to provide a platform for everyone to share knowledge with anyone who is interested. The trend, I hope, is for more people to realize that they do have knowledge that's interesting and worth sharing and to give them the opportunity to speak in front of an audience and further develop their ideas when putting together their presentations, and also get feedback from strangers that they otherwise would have never met.

Some newspapers reported about Sunday's event (in Vietnamese):
http://dddn.com.vn/2011072504147776cat187/rmit-viet-nam-to-chuc-thanh-co...

What's the first thing tourists to Vietnam do after deplaning?  They go through immigration and then get in a taxi to go to their hotel, reverse on the way home.

Generally, people from Europe or the Americas need to pre-arrange a visa to enter Vietnam, unlike most other Asian countries, or they can be brave and pre-arrange a visa-on-arrival.  

If you've never gone this route, it works like this.

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[This is the third post about Accessing Facebook in Vietnam

Lately, ISPs in Vietnam has begun randomly blocking Facebook again after a period of openness.  When it's blocked, even accessing Facebook via their Lisp4 server (or using the Saigonist DNS server) doesn't work.

But there are a number of apps, both web-based and desktop apps, which integrate with Facebook to different extents.  These apps, once you login to them with your Facebook account, can basically get your Facebook updates for you without requiring access to Facebook.

One such app is Seesmic, which has both a web and a desktop client.  Seesmic connects to a numer of social networks and I use it for reading my Twitter feed, with a custom hack to fix a serious problem with disappearing Tweets.  But once you login to Seesmic and connect it to your Facebook account, you can see your Facebook feed as well as messages.  That's enough for most people, most of the time.

Other desktop apps that can connect to Facebook are Bubbles and Hootsuite, but I wasn't able to get Hootsuite to connect to my Facebook account.

Another less convenient way is to use Opera's online demo of their Opera Mini browser.  It's a Java app and you use it like you're using a phone, but it will connect to Facebook for you (unless your browser doesn't let Java make network connections).

When I saw that Diesel released a desktop app called Excellbook as part of a marketing campaign called Be Stupid At Work, I was hoping it would also work in bypassing the Facebook block.  It's an Adobe AIR app, which requires installing Adobe AIR, and is generally a piece of crap.  Even if you can get it to connect, it will require a connection to Facebook still and so it's not so useful.  Nice idea, terrible execution and yet another example of a bad Adobe AIR app.

Muong language

Submitted by tomo on May 26, 2011 - 3:45am

Thanks to all the responses from people who listened to the short audio I posted the other day of a man "speaking strange Vietnamese".  I got all kinds of answers from "it's Vietnamese" to "it sounds like Thai mixed with Vietnamese" to "it sounds like a Thai or Cambodian man speaking Vietnamese".  Some people actually understood the content quite clearly, which talks about Jesus, while others couldn't understand it at all.

In fact, the segment was neither a man speaking Vietnamese nor a foreigner speaking Vietnamese with an accent.  This man was speaking his native language, which is Mường, a language closely related to Vietnamese, and perhaps closer to the origins of the Vietnamese language.  The Mường people are basically ethnically Vietnamese but live in the mountainous areas of North-Central provinces such as Hoa Binh and Thanh Hoa.

Although considered a separate language from Vietnamese, many Vietnamese speakers will find they can understand much of the Mường language without studying it.

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View from Bitexco Tower

Submitted by tomo on May 3, 2011 - 12:31am

From the top of Saigon's tallest building, the Bitexco Financial Tower. This is what the 200,000 VND ticket to reach the SkyDeck gets you. Y'all can thank me for saving you 200K! Click for higher resolution, and more photos from Mr. dEvEn.

From Saigon Skydeck with love

This is in response to a recent news article quoting an idiot Vietnamese-German "traffic expert" on a new traffic reduction proposal (read article).

Reducing traffic in Vietnam's big cities is as simple as this: limit private automobiles (cars), increase public transportation (busses and trains with grade separation). Focus on cars because:

  • Cars disproportionately increase traffic problems.
  • Compared to pedestrians, bicyclists, and motorbikes, they take up much more space per traveler.
  • They are bulky and less maneuverable, so they force everyone else to stop, slow down, be blocked, and block others.
  • Vietnam's roads are generally not wide enough for two cars to pass each other without causing traffic to slow down or stop.
  • Many roads and alleys are hardly wide enough for a car yet they are allowed to use them while blocking all other traffic.
  • Roads in Vietnam are constantly under construction which often means reduced width of lanes and more bottlenecks for cars.
  • While both bikes and cars often stop in intersections after the light turns red, a car jamming an intersection causes a much bigger traffic jam, because unlike bikes it's much harder to go around them. So one car blocking an intersection means other cars who now have the right of way can't move.
  • There is generally no parking for cars so they end up illegally parking on busy streets, reducing capacity, or they drive around idly increasing traffic.
  • Cars and bikes often use each others lanes illegally, but blockage caused by a car in a bike lane is much more severe.
  • Cars are a major culprit causing traffic jams wherever they are. The 500,000 cars in Saigon cause a lot of traffic congestion.

Clearly, taking one car off the road is more effective than many bikes for reducing traffic congestion. It's also a more equitable use of resources like land and fuel.

So-called traffic expert Nguyen Minh Dong says an odd-even license plate number scheme for keeping cars out of the city center every other day wouldn't work, mainly arguing about pollution and ignoring congestion. The problem at hand is congestion, and the corollary to his argument is that we should all buy cars in order to reduce pollution. Absurd.

Pollution would be better addressed by encouraging public transit, bicycles, walking, and affordable housing close to jobs.

But odd-even rationing has been tried many times before successfully. In nearby Guangzhou, an odd-even scheme kept 800,000 cars off the road over two months. While in other countries where cars are cheap it may make sense to buy a second car just to drive it on other days, cars are expensive here and incomes are much lower. It's ridiculous to assert that most would buy another car rather than use ways that almost all other Vietnamese take to travel, and it's ridiculous to say that an odd-even scheme would therefore not be effective.

The article argues that the "most important mission of transport police officers is to control traffic." I think that enforcing an odd-even scheme sounds a lot like controlling traffic. They then go on to argue that such a scheme "may cause" corruption. In Vietnam, enforcing any and all traffic rules causes corruption. Is that a reason to make it legal to run red lights?

There are many ways to reduce the number of cars. This reporter conveniently ignored all of them so I'll suggest a few.

  • We should restrict cars from roads that are too narrow for them and use physical barriers to stop them from entering.
  • We could make and keep roads one-way for cars but bidirectional for other traffic.
  • We can add tolls around the core.
  • We should add barriers to prevent cars from taking over bike lanes, while still making all lanes accessible to bikes.
  • We should also be considering London's congestion charging (with free routes through the city to discourage long avoidance routes) or Singapore's electronic road pricing.
  • We should NOT continue reducing fees for cars.
  • We should NOT be misled into thinking that building more highways leads to less congestion. We should learn that lesson from the US.

And finally, we should NOT just sit around and do nothing. Market forces will mean increasing car ownership in Vietnam for an infrastructure that is overloaded by them as it is. I haven't even begun to address the taxi and busses impact on traffic! That will be a future post...

Improved Google Spam Filter?

Submitted by tomo on February 26, 2011 - 10:08pm

Google, in response to the flood of recent concern about spam/content farms showing up in their results, have just announced a big change in their system of algorithms which calculate page rankings. They had previously published a Chrome plugin that lets you manually block results, and Google says the new algorithm blocks some 84% of the same sites that people were blocking with the plugin. I guess some people were controversially blocking non-spammy sites, rather than guess that Google's algorithm isn't good enough. Or isn't it?

Matt Cutts, the main anti-spam guy at Google, says the new algorithm change affects 11.8% of queries. Since the change is only effective in the US right now and I can browse from both Vietnam and the US, we can compare results and some one in eight queries should be improved.

So I tested "dog shampoo" out of the blue. I have never had a dog because I think they smell.

In Vietnam, high ranking results included drnaturalvet.com which had a low quality page of filler about dog shampoo and dogshampoo.info which is clearly a made-for-adsense site. In the US, the drnaturalvet link is much lower, but dogshampoo.info maintains the same high position. A link to content farm ehow.com is also lower now. And a link to dogshampoo.co.uk, a made-for-adsense site with nothing about dog shampoo at the time of indexing (see cache) is now gone too.

A search for winrar came up with fairly similar results in either country, and both maintained links to spam sites like software.informer.com.

A search for "tightvnc server authentication successful closed connection" punished duplicate content site pinoytech.org slightly but another duplicate/copy site efreedom.com maintained its position in the top 20. Both copy the StackExchange site SuperUser.com.

So it seems that the new algorithm change is an improvement, but I don't think it goes far enough to filter spammy results. While it may be a slight setback for those guys, they are still in the running and will be emboldened to try to rank higher.

There may still be a need for users to crowdsource a database of filtered spam sites until further algorithm improvements.

Note: The Atlantic did a similar test from India on "is botox safe" and "drywall dust" and found their results to be much improved.

After months of disparity between the official Vietnam dong/US dollar exchange rate and the rate commanded by the black market, the State Bank of Vietnam has weakened the local currency to a range surrounding 20693. This is the fourth decrease in 15 months, the sixth in two years. The move by the central bank came expectedly as there had been great pressure to devalue in the months leading up to Tet with a promise from the government not to do so before Tet.

This won't be the last devaluation for 2011.

For one, the new rate is still below the 21000+ the black market had been demanding before the change. Previously, the dollar would fetch up to 21300 VND at jewelry shops.

Secondly, the pressure on the dong due to rising inflation and the trade deficit remains -- and foreign currency reserves are still low, limiting how much the central bank can artificially support the currency. Inflation remains in the double-digit range after a lull from the global economic crisis and crash in oil prices. Gasoline prices will either continue to increase, contributing to imported inflation, or the government will continue to deplete its reserves to subsidize gas. The trade deficit, still high although there are signs of it lowering, is also dependent on now officially higher import prices as most manufactured exports rely heavily on imported materials. However, high prices will also discourage imports. High inflation will force rises in wages, making manufacturing in Vietnam less competitive, and adding to pressure to weaken the dong to make exports cheaper especially in a stalling glocal economic growth situation.

Economic consultant Bui Kien Thanh predicts a CPI increase of 0.15% for every 1% drop in the value of the dong, or a 1.4% increase in the CPI due to just the latest dong drop.

Third, Vietnamese people still lack confidence in their local currency and no plan has been announced to address any of these issues or for delaying further devaluations for any time. After a period of dollar scarcity it's now possible again to buy dollars from banks. Concerned about rising inflation and expecting continued high inflation, Vietnamese will continue to rely on assets they view as inflation hedges such as gold, real estate, and the dollar. These large one-off devaluations do nothing to increase people's confidence in the dong and the focus appears to be on rapid economic growth rather than macroeconomic stability. The central bank has stated they will adjust the official rate more frequently and flexibly, which should increase confidence in the local currency.

As a fourth factor, 12-month non-deliverable forwards for the currency had been in the 21000-22000 range for the previous 12 months but have shot up to the 23700s as of February 11th when the new rate was announced. One interpretation is that the dong will remain steady for the next 12 months, but as this latest devaluation isn't baked into past future predictions another interpretation is for the dong to drop another 11% in value by this time next year. The 12-month non-deliverable forwards have not always accurately predicted when devaluations would occur and the size of that market is small, allowing a small number of traders to have a large impact on the price, but they have been an indicator.

So what steps should Vietnam take? I think primarily we need to stabilize inflation with the important side effect of increasing confidence in the dong even at the expense of faster short term growth. Part of inflation is based on worldwide oil prices out of Vietnam's control, but we can try to be less dependent on oil and shift some responsibility to the Vietnamese free market by reducing subsidies for transportation fuel and we should be developing public transportation. Luxury imports could be discouraged. As a nation highly susceptible to prices on imported goods we should encourage export industries that are less dependent on imports and particularly encourage lending to these sectors while otherwise raising interest rates relatively to cool down other parts of the economy. We should consider the increase in food prices such as rice, which we are actively exporting to other countries, and we should be cognizant of the renewed housing boom which is making housing more expensive for everyone.

Vietnam ISPs

Submitted by tomo on February 16, 2011 - 4:19pm

With the recent instability in Facebook access and some people reporting it blocked on one ISP or area of Vietnam while others can access it just fine... Is it time for you to rethink your choice in internet service provider?

There are a dozen or so ISPs in Vietnam but I've only looked at the biggest: Viettel, VNPT, FPT, SPT, and Netnam. They also all provide fiber internet (FTTH - fiber to the home) and not just ADSL. Here are their prices for selected packages:

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